A Personal Encounter with Conservation History
When most people picture a safari, they imagine endless rolling plains teeming with wildlife. And Nairobi National Park has all that. But… The place that left the deepest mark on me wasn’t alive at all… It was a quiet hill marked by a simple monument… A place where I stood upon the ashes of thousands of lost elephants.
That moment changed the way I saw safaris… Not as journeys through the wild, but as stories of resilience, sacrifice, and hope.
Hi. My name is Eva Njogu, a KPSGA-certified guide and writer for AJ Kenya Safaris. The Ivory Burning Site is one of my favorite places in Nairobi National Park because it represents one of the most powerful statements ever made against the illegal wildlife trade.
Perched on higher ground, the site offers spectacular views of the vast plains that stretch eastward. To the casual observer, it may seem like just a simple monument. But this is the very spot that changed Kenya’s course of elephant conservation forever.
The Historic First Burn: How Kenya Shocked the World
It’s one thing to read about conservation history. But to stand on the very spot where it was made? Chills… Absolute chills.
Let me paint a picture for you. It’s 1989, and President Moi is about to make a decision that’ll echo around the world. The country’s elephant population has plummeted from 167,000 in 1973 to a mere 16,000 by 1989. The crisis is dire. Something drastic has to be done.
On July 18 that same year, President Moi, alongside world-renowned conservationist Dr. Richard Leakey, sets fire to 12 tons of confiscated ivory worth over $1 million at this very site. The ivory, representing approximately 2,000 elephant tusks, goes up in flames as the world watches.
“For Kenya, ivory is worthless unless it is on an elephant,” becomes the rallying cry that day… a sentiment that continues to define Kenya’s stance on wildlife protection.
This isn’t just about destroying valuable contraband; it is a deliberate message that Kenya values its living elephants more than any profit from their tusks. The ban helps secure an international ban on the ivory trade through the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) in 1990, marking a pivotal moment in global wildlife conservation.
Continuing the Legacy: Subsequent Burns and Their Impact
The 1989 burn wasn’t the end. It was just the beginning. Kenya has conducted several ivory destruction events since then:
- A second burn in 1991 destroyed 6.8 tons of ivory
- Former President Mwai Kibaki presided over a 5-ton burn in Tsavo
- In 2015, President Uhuru Kenyatta burned 15 tons of ivory
- The largest burn in history took place on April 30, 2016, when President Kenyatta set ablaze 105 tons of elephant tusks (representing approximately 8,000 elephants) and 1.35 tons of rhino horn (from about 343 rhinos)
I remember watching news coverage of the 2016 burn, mesmerized by the towering pyres of tusks arranged in pyramid shapes. The sheer scale of the event – representing Kenya’s largest-ever destruction of wildlife trafficking products – was both heartbreaking and inspiring.
But Why Burn It? Why Not Just Sell It?
A friend of mine once asked me, “Why burn the ivory and not sell it? The elephants are dead anyway…. That money could fund conservation?”.
Fair question? Certainly. And it really got me thinking. But being there, it just… clicked.
Selling the ivory, even for a good cause, would signal that it has commercial value. It would keep the market alive and feed the demand.
The purpose of these burns is multifaceted:
- To diminish demand for ivory products by demonstrating that the only value of ivory is in living elephants
- To send a clear message to poachers that their work is futile
- To foster public support for the protection of endangered species
- To demonstrate Kenya’s unwavering commitment to ending the illegal ivory trade
Critics argue that destroying ivory might create scarcity that increases black market value, potentially encouraging more poaching. However, Kenya maintains that the symbolic power of the burns, combined with strengthened anti-poaching efforts, outweighs these concerns.
The strategy is working. Kenya’s elephant population has shown signs of recovery, increasing from 16,000 in 1989 to approximately 36,169 by 2021, a 12% increase over seven years that demonstrates the effectiveness of the country’s wildlife protection initiatives.
Visiting the Ivory Burning Site Today
My most recent visit was in December last year. I’d packed a small lunch and sat on the bench at the picnic area, just taking it all in. The monument is beautifully maintained with a few benches, toilet facilities, and a picnic area with stunning views.
It is located just inside the main Langata Road gate of Nairobi National Park, within walking distance of the Nagolomon reservoir. It’s easily accessible and has become a popular stop for visitors interested in conservation history.
Activities at the Ivory Burning Site
The Ivory Burning Site offers more than just historical significance. You can enjoy several activities here:
- Picnicking: Bring some food and refreshments to enjoy in this peaceful setting
- Bird watching: Bring binoculars to spot some of the 400+ bird species that inhabit the park
- Game viewing: The elevated position offers excellent opportunities to spot wildlife on the plains below
- Photography: Capture stunning landscapes and potentially wildlife with the city skyline in the background
I recommend visiting early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the lighting is perfect for photographs and the temperature is more comfortable. The site is open year-round, making it accessible at any time of year, regardless of when you plan your trip to Kenya.
The Broader Context: Nairobi National Park
The Ivory Burning Site is just one attraction within the remarkable Nairobi National Park – the world’s only national park within a capital city. Established in 1946 as Kenya’s first national park, this 117 square kilometer protected area offers an extraordinary wildlife experience just minutes from urban Nairobi.
The park is home to four of the “Big Five” (lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino – only elephant is missing), along with numerous other species, including giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, and over 400 bird species. It’s particularly renowned as a thriving rhino sanctuary.
When planning your visit, consider these practical details:
- Entrance fees (2024/2025): International visitors pay $80 for adults and $35 for children during high season (July to March)
- Best time to visit: The dry months (June to September, January and February) offer optimal wildlife viewing
- Opening hours: 6:00 AM to 7:00 PM daily
For a comprehensive experience, I recommend combining your visit to the Ivory Burning Site with other attractions in and around the park.
Conservation Partners: Organizations Fighting for Wildlife
Kenya’s conservation efforts extend beyond government initiatives to include numerous organizations dedicated to protecting wildlife. Two notable examples are:
- Save the Elephants: Founded by Dr. Iain Douglas-Hamilton, this organization conducts cutting-edge research on elephant behavior and movement while working to secure their future. Their headquarters are in Nairobi, with their principal research station in Samburu National Reserve.
- David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (now Sheldrick Wildlife Trust): Founded in 1977 by Dame Daphne Sheldrick in memory of her husband, this organization operates the famous elephant orphanage in Nairobi National Park, rescuing and rehabilitating orphaned elephants and other wildlife.
These organizations, along with the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), form the backbone of Kenya’s comprehensive approach to conservation, combining research, rehabilitation, anti-poaching efforts, and community engagement.
The Global Impact: How Kenya’s Ivory Burns Changed Conservation
The symbolism of ivory burning has resonated far beyond Kenya’s borders. Since that first burn in 1989, numerous countries including Gabon, the Philippines, and the United States have conducted their own ivory destruction events.
The burns have helped shape global policy on wildlife trafficking and contributed to increased awareness about the plight of elephants. The message that ivory has no value unless it’s on a living elephant has gradually permeated public consciousness, helping to reduce demand in consumer countries.
Kenya’s leadership in this area demonstrates the power of bold, symbolic actions in conservation. By destroying valuable contraband rather than selling it, Kenya established itself as a wildlife conservation landmark and inspired similar commitments worldwide.
Beyond Symbolism: Kenya’s Comprehensive Anti-Poaching Strategy
While the ivory burns capture headlines, Kenya’s fight against poaching extends far beyond symbolic gestures. The country has implemented a multi-faceted approach that includes:
- Formation of elite anti-poaching units combining Kenya Wildlife Service officers with other security forces
- Deployment of aerial surveillance to monitor wildlife and detect poaching activities
- Community engagement programs that educate local populations about conservation
- Strengthened wildlife laws with severe penalties for poachers and traffickers
- International partnerships to combat the global networks that facilitate wildlife crime
These efforts have yielded significant results. The dramatic decline in elephant poaching since the peak of the crisis demonstrates that Kenya’s approach – combining symbolism with concrete action – is working.
Conclusion: A Continuing Legacy of Conservation
As you stand at the Ivory Burning Site in Nairobi National Park, you’re not just visiting a historical landmark – you’re witnessing an ongoing commitment to conservation that continues to evolve. The ashes beneath your feet represent thousands of elephants whose deaths sparked a global movement to protect their surviving relatives.
For visitors to Kenya, this site offers a unique opportunity to connect with one of conservation’s most powerful stories. It reminds us that protecting wildlife requires not just practical measures but also bold statements that challenge how we value nature.
The next time you’re in Nairobi, I encourage you to visit this remarkable site. Stand where history was made, gaze out over the plains where wild animals roam with the city skyline in the background, and reflect on how a single act of destruction became one of conservation’s most constructive moments.
